Tuesday, October 7, 2014

EBC: No moon no light Dingboche

Day 5 - The trek from Deboche to Dingboche was eventless. Post lunch I walked faster with one of the porters for company while rest of the group was walking slowly with Nima and taking pictures. 

We stayed at Moonlight lodge in Dingboche - attached toilets but no running water, only gas shower option at NR 400 per shower, no electricity in the rooms as weather didn't allow solar batteries to charge, no wifi as telephone line was down. This was our first taste of how things would worsen in terms of amenities over the next few days. 

My funny buddy was in Deboche so I was feeling a bit alone but soon I was chatting with a South Korean trekker who had taken 3 months off from work to backpack alone in Nepal without guide or porter. He had already completed Annapurna circuit and was on way to EBC. 

Lack of electricity in rooms and dropping temperatures made us hang around in dining area where a wood/dung based heater would start at around 6:00 pm. Dinner was always served at 7:00 pm so by 8:30 pm I would retire to my room. Except at Rivendell I had been using my sleeping bag and I continued with same here. 

Day 6 - acclimatisation trek to Nagarjuna Peak. Started very well but towards the end weather turned wet and cold so we decided to turn back mid way. We climbed around 1500 ft and came back down to Moonlight before lunch. 

PK reached Moonlight around 1 pm and had lunch with us. She had walked for 5 hours and while she was in pain, she was confident she can make it to EBC. Though Mingmar was worried about descent because that's where she struggled most. She was walking with trekking poles, at places leaning on Mingmar for support and her backpack was carried by a porter whenever possible. 

While I agreed that it would be a very difficult journey to and back from EBC, I knew we can explore horse as an option for the way back. So we kept our hopes up and spent the rest of the evening in same spirits. 
Just as we left Deboche we found this beautiful nook

Yaks...not the friendliest of creatures

Crossing the river yet again

Fastest porter resting as others are far behind

First flag point on the Nagarjuna Peak ~ 15000 ft

Turning point - more than 1000 ft short of the peak

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