Wanderlust: EBC: Two crazy women, a patient guide and the farting horse

Day 4 began with some grumblings about horse being late and delaying the whole group. So it was decided that Nima (guide) and 3 members of the group will start sooner and I along with PK (injured party) and Mingmar (assistant guide) will join them once the horse shows up.

The other group had just left when the horse reached camp de base to pick up its injured rider. So we all started walking together. It was a beautiful sunny day and we could get glimpses of some peaks. Inspite of the injury, PK was in good spirits and was enjoying the horse ride. Soon the horse picked up pace and PK, Mingmar & I separated from the group. We waited at the tea place but soon the rest of the group was far behind again. Eventually we all caught up at the lunch place.

I am glad I was with PK because at one point the horse owner wanted her to walk as the downward incline was steep. And as accommodating as she is she got off from the horse. I put my foot down and got her back on the horse and ensured that she doesn't worsen her injury.

After lunch, Mingmar wanted to take another route that is not used by trekkers but is better suited for horses and other animals. Not knowing that it would be much steeper, I decided to join PK and Mingmar on this route.

It was a really steep climb and took the wind out of me, towards the end of the climb I took out a trekking pole because my legs were very tired. The positive point was that the muddy albeit narrow path was soft on the feet and my soles that were hurting due to walking on stones pre lunch, felt relieved.

I was of course the trailing member of this horse led group. And on more than one occasion I found myself at the receiving end of the horse's stinking farts. So I started walking faster in order to stay in front of it. At some point as I was catching up my breath, leaning against a rock, sipping on water it crept up close to me and scared the hell out of me. The rest of the group and trekkers from another group had a big laugh at my expense.

We reached Tengboche monastery around 3 pm. The horse owner didn't want to stop but PK wanted a peak inside so he finally relented and we got to see the beautiful monastery.

After our brief stop, we continued to Deboche where we stayed at the most luxurious accommodations during this trek - Rinvendell Lodge. It is indeed named after "Lord of the Rings" and has amazing view of the Everest range, if weather permits.

PK and I shared the room with attached bathroom. It was NR 3500 a day - very expensive compared to other rooms that were NR 200 a day but as I said it was luxurious and totally worth it.

The place also boasts of freshly baked bread and that was evident from the toasts that were served for breakfast next day.

PK's ankle was still swollen and it was decided that she would stay back at Rivendell one more day while rest of us will continue to Dingboche. The original plan for all was 2 nights at Dingboche including one acclimatisation day so the idea was that she will join us on our second night at Dingboche.

She also packed her duffel bag the next day so that porters could carry it along with the rest of the luggage and kept minimal stuff needed to stay an extra day at Deboche. Mingmar also stayed back as he was to be her guide when she trekked alone to Dingboche.

I felt terrible leaving her alone but she was already feeling bad that she is slowing the group down and I didn't want to add to her misery and hence decided to go to Dingboche with rest of the group