An attempt at 3 passes - Day 2 to Namche

As is the practice, we started our day early and started the hike towards Namche at 7:30 am. Having done this hike 18 months ago on way to EBC, I knew that this was going to be a tough day and I had informed my fellow hikers about same. There are two villages on the way to Namche - Monjo and Jorsale. After Jorsale, there are no more places for a formal halt - which means we need to carry water and food that we might need on the steep hike that makes the journey from Jorsale to Namche.

Just above Monjo is the entrance checkpoint for the Sagarmatha National Park, where TIMS card and national park receipt is checked. And soon after that is Jorsale. We had a short tea halt before check point and even then we were in Jorsale by 10 am. Now this was way too early for lunch but I knew the tough day that lay ahead of us, so I forced my fellow hikers to eat something and to pack some Tibetan bread (with jam & butter) for the road. I filtered the water using  my personal water filter because I wasn't sure I would get any tap water later on and rest of the group bought bottled water.

Thus prepared we left Jorsale for Namche at 10:30 am. At first it didn't seem tough but about 30 minutes into this latter part of the hike, came the steep inclines. We had to first climb upto the higher suspension bridge, cross that and resume the hike to Namche.

Easier beginning - walking next to Dudh Koshi

Beginning of the steep inclines

Once I started to ascend, I started to remember the trail - the place where we shared a joke or where we stopped for a photo shoot. It felt wonderful at first, but at every such memory stop, I also recalled how far I was from the destination for the day and that didn't help at all! The two gentlemen were way ahead of us backpacking women and often we would find them waiting for us in shade somewhere, looking thoroughly bored.

Climbing much higher than the second suspension bridge

Almost halfway between Jorsale and Namche is a place where one can find a tap and some toilets - both very important. Former because that is the only source of water on this part of trail and if you have a filter you don't have to lug the water from below. Latter because this trail was very crowded and it wasn't easy to find a secluded spot to void the bladder. This spot even had a vendor selling fruits and bottled water (at exorbitant prices). All in all a good place for a break especially because it has a large tree underneath which a manmade structure allows you to rest. The trail is very dusty and its almost impossible to take breaks except at designated places.
We continued our hike slowly - primarily because of me and AD as backpacks had slowed us down significantly. Slowly we made way through the very dusty and steeply inclined trail and took a break to eat some of the Tibetan bread we were carrying only to find that we were just 200 m from the Namche check point...in hindsight we shouldn't have taken the break.

Namche...phew we made it!

After checking in, we proceeded to Namche Bazaar. I was extremely relieved to see the entrance to the village, even though our lodge was still more than a couple of hundred steps away. Based on my previous experience, we had decided to stay at Camp de Base and it turned out to be a great choice especially with the hot water available in the attached bathroom (thanks to the solar power)

We reached our destination at 2 pm and while there were folks (with heavier backapcks) completing the same hike in 4 hours, I believe we did pretty well considering the fact that previous time we had reached Namche around 5 pm.

Namche is the last place, before you proceed further on the hikes in this region, where one can have all modern comforts - there are pubs, coffee shops, cyber cafes, ATM, shops of all kinds selling trekking gear and even those where you can rent down bags or jackets. So after a nice lunch and hot shower, we decided to check out the place and I found that many more shops and eating places have been added in the 18 months since my last visit. 

The rough day was behind us and we retired happy in the knowledge that next day we just had an acclimatization hike without our backpacks.

An attempt at 3 passes - Beginning of the hike

After having hiked to Everest and Annapurna Base camps, the big hike that was in my mind was the one that covers 3 passes - Renjo La, Cho La and Kongma La. And after my acceptable performance on the tough hike from Yuksom to HMI base camp with a 12 kilo backpack I decided to backpack through the 3 passes. Pretty lofty goal, I must say - in hindsight.

AD, a friend of a friend, lives in US and wanted to hike the Himalayas with me and when she reached out to me last year, I jumped at the idea and promptly booked the hike through my favourite agency in Kathmandu.

I started my usual training - Nandi hills hikes and climbing up and down the 15floors of the apartment building that I live in, all with an 8 kilo backpack. I also redid the 9 week Insanity program to build my cardio endurance. Between the time I booked my tickets and the trek date, we had two more members join our small group.

Four of us met in Kathmandu and after some last minute shopping for down sleeping bag rentals and water bottles and trekking poles, we met Pertemba Sherpa for an early dinner. He may require some introduction to those not into mountaineering.

His first taste of a mountaineering expedition came in 1970 as part of Chris Bonington’s team who made the first ascent of the South Face of Annapurna. His climbing skills so impressed his leader that he soon became a climbing Sherpa. When he made his first ascent of Everest in 1975, it was not by the standard Southeast Ridge, but by a much more technical route up the Southwest Face, where he reached the summit in overcast conditions with the climbing legend Pete Boardman. He climbed Everest again with a German team in 1979, and again with a Norwegian team in 1985. On this third and final climb he reached the top with his old friend and mentor Chris Bonington. *

* Source http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2014/10-great-sherpa-mountaineers/

It was an honour to meet him and break bread with him. We had an amazing multi course meal at Thamel House Restaurant. At the end of the meal, we were all so full that we could barely walk back to our hotel. This time I had chosen a Trip Advisor recommended hotel - Hotel Friend's Home and it turned out to be great place - value for money and extremely clean with all modern amenities plus a good breakfast.

Long wait  on way to the aircraft - spent time clicking pictures

Next day as we left for Lukla, based on my past experience I was more than prepared for not being able to land there on the first attempt. However weather gods were benevolent even though air traffic control wasn't and after about 90 minutes of wait, we finally took off & landed in Lukla around 10 am.


Starbucks at Lukla

It was a bright sunny day - to the extent of being warm. Our porter met us at the Lukla airport, taking the group tally to 6 - 4 hikers, 1 guide and 1 porter (for the two additions - AD & I were still planning to backpack). We stopped for some masala tea at Hotel Numbur and left our return tickets there with the owner. The hotel is really good, is just next to runway and has the added bonus of being run by wife of a gentlemen who works for one of the key airlines that fly between Lukla and Kathmandu.

After this brief halt, we started for Phakding, our destination for the day. We cleared the Lukla check post around 10:45 am and inspite of walking slowly (it was first day of the hike and we were suddenly at 2800 m), we were in Phakding by 2 pm.

First suspension bridge on the trail

The two gentlemen with day packs were not tired at all and would have liked to go on. But having faced altitude challenges before, I vetoed the idea (also because my shoulders were hurting) and we checked into Sunrise lodge. Last time I had stayed at Beer Garden Inn which had really dirty linen and dingy rooms. This one was 100 times better, even had hot water in the attached bathrooms (yes we had taken "attached rooms" as they are called there) and had lots of sunlight streaming through the big wide windows.

After lunch, shower and rest, when lounging around in the dining hall, we got talking to this gentleman who was on his 15th hike to EBC. It was amazing to hear how amenities have improved, on the trail, over the last 2 decades. While I wasn't really tired, I decided to retire early as I wanted to rest up before the tough hike to Namche Bazaar next day...I knew it is going to be really hard with my 12 kilo backpack.


 

Greek Islands

No trip to Greece is complete without visiting some of its key islands. The islands are the main characteristic of Greece’s morphology and an integral part of the country’s culture and tradition. Greek sovereign land includes 6,000 islands and islets scattered in the Aegean and Ionian Seas, of which only 227 islands are inhabited.

Most of the islands are found in the Aegean Sea and are divided into seven groups. With the limited time we had, we couldn't possibly visit even the top 10 islands, so we decided on a day cruise to 3 islands in the Argosaronic Gulf - Hydra, Poros and Aegena.

We started with Hydra. This island has one main town, known simply as "Hydra port". It consists of a crescent-shaped harbor, around which is centered a strand of restaurants, shops, markets, and galleries that cater to tourists and locals. Steep stone streets lead up and outward from the harbor area. Most of the local residences, as well as the hostelries on the island, are located on these streets.

Hydra has no cars or motorbikes (by law), garbage trucks are the only motor vehicles on the island. Horses, mules and donkeys, and water taxis provide public transportation. The inhabited area, however, is pretty small and hence mostly walkable

Port of Athens - beginning of the cruise



Hydra Port - as visible from the island

Beautiful white houses, Hydra



Lovely Blue windows, Hydra

Our next stop was Poros - an island with rich vegetation. It has a good road network and adequate tourist infrastructure, which makes it a popular resort for short holidays.



Port of Poros

Port of Poros

 



View of Sea from the base of lighthouse, Poros

Another view from the base of lighthouse, Poros

Lighthouse, Poros

By the time we reached Aegina, we decided to spend more time enjoying the island, rather than clicking pictures, hence no photos to share. Aegina island is know for its pistachios and of course we also bought some. We skipped the optional tour to the Temple of Aphaia and instead just roamed around the island.

On the way back to Athens, we were entertained by local music and dance performances. Those really made our day. Overall the cruise was really worth it - ofcourse we didn't get to spend much time on any of the islands but it was still a great experience and I would highly recommend it if one is short on time and wants a flavor of Greek islands.

Santorini
Next day we flew to Santorini (Thira) - one of the Cyclades. The name “Cyclades” refers to the islands forming a circle (the name in English means: “circular islands”) around the sacred island of Delos. According to the Greek mythology, Poseidon, God of the sea, furious at the Cyclades nymphs turned them into islands.

We took Ryan Air flight from Athens to Santorini and rented a small car there (quite similar to Santro and it was manual transmission). Thira is a small island and car came pretty handy - so if you can drive stick shift, I would definitely suggest renting a car - book it online and someone will meet you at the airport with the paperwork and keys.

With help from google maps, we were able to locate most of the key attractions easily and even managed to find parking in the busy downtown where we had a long leisurely lunch accompanied by some amazing wine.



Oia, Santorini

Oia, Santorini



View from Monastery of Profitis Ilias 



View from Monastery of Profitis Ilias 

It was a nice drive to the Monastery - not really steep as some of the blogs had suggested. I had no issues getting my small car up to the top.






























We had booked 19:45 flight back to Athens and when we reached the airport around 6 pm, we found it closed. Apparently in off season months, the airport is not open whole day. The weather had turned quite cold as it was raining most part of the day and right now we were really grateful for the warm confines of the car where we had decided to wait it out.

To be honest, 2 days simply weren't enough but it did give us a taste of what Greek islands can offer. A vacation just to spend some quality time  on these islands is definitely in the offing.

Greece - A day at the navel of Gaia (earth)

Day 3 of the trip was reserved for a tour of Delphi - there were two key destinations, the museum and the archeological site. As we did with Acropolis, we went to the museum first and then to the site.

This was a guided tour, took us abut 3 hours to get to Delphi in a comfortable coach with a breakfast stop in between. Unfortunately it was raining whole morning and we were worried if we will get to really enjoy the day. However, just before we reached Delphi sun came out for some time and I got to witness one of the most beautiful rainbows of my life. (no photograph of same as I spent my time just watching the rainbow rather than clicking it)

Once again I will use photographs to capture this day...first set is from the museum:

Two identical Kouros Statues. They are the oldest monumental votive offerings at Delphi, and one of the earliest examples of monumental archaic sculpture. Early 6th c. B.C. (circa 580 B.C.) Over life size (6.15m) each. Made by Polymedes of Argos.

Chryselephantine (gold and ivory) statues, possibly depicting Artemis (left) and Apollo (Above). 6th c. BCE.

Sphinx - front view

Large Sphinx of Naxos sitting on an Ionic column about 10m tall. Circa 560 B.C.

Sphinx - side view

The pediment and frieze from the east facade of the treasury of Siphnos. The pediment depicts the dispute between Heracles and Apollo for the oracular tripod. 525 BCE.

The omphalos of the earth. This sacred object was located in the Adyton of the Temple of Apollo, and was viewed only by the priests and priestess who had access to the chamber. It is a Hellenistic or Roman copy of the original



White kylix with a drawing of Apollo. 480-470 BCE.
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The god is crowned with a myrtle wreath and is seated on a lion-footed stool. He is holding his lyre and pours libations from a phiale, while a crow or a raven watches from a perch

 

The Charioteer of Delphi. 470 BC., 1.80 cm tall (5' 11")

The "Charioteer of Delphi" is one of the best known ancient Greek statues, and one of the best preserved examples of classical bronze casts. It is considered a fine example of the "Severe" style.

 

The sculpture depicts the driver of the chariot race at the moment when he presents his chariot and horses to the spectators in recognition of his victory. 

 

The Charioteer of Delphi is undoubtedly one of the main highlights of the museum, and it is exhibited in its very own hall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below are the pictures taken at the archeological site:

 

 

The restored Treasury of the Athenians at Delphi.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Athenian Treasury was a votive building in the form of a reduced scale temple, designed to hold the multitude of Athenian offerings to the Delphi oracle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stoa of the Athenians

 

 

 

 

Dedicated by the Athenians after the Persian War, the top step has an Archaic inscription dedicating trophies taken from the Persians.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Temple of Apollo Doric columns

 

 

 

Temple of Apollo was first built around the 7th c. B.C. by the two legendary architects Trophonios and Agamedes. It was rebuilt after a fire in the 6th c. B.C. This temple was destroyed in 373 B.C. by an earthquake and was rebuilt for the third time in 330 B.C.





Delphi Theatre

The theater at Delphi is build further up the hill from the Temple of Apollo and it presented the seated audience with a spectacular view of the entire sanctuary below and the valley beyond. Its 35 rows can accommodate around five thousand spectators who in ancient times enjoyed plays, poetry readings, and musical events during the various festivals that took place periodically at Delphi.

Delphi Theatre with the temple of Apollo in the background.

Delphi Stadium

Mountain-top stadium where the Pythian athletic contests were performed. These were second in importance only to Olympic Games. Its stone seats could sit around 6500 spectators -  its track is 177.55 m long (about 550 ft.), and 25.50 m wide.

 

 

Aegean sea in the distance

We wrapped up the day with a lovely lunch in the village with a view of Aegean sea in the background. By lunch time it had started raining again and temperature dropped close to zero but we still managed to spend some time outside enjoying the beautiful views.

Delphi Village

Post lunch, we got back into the warm cocoon of our bus and started back for Athens. Thus ended our day at the center of earth (navel of Gaia)





 

Greece - A walk through the 2500 year old citadel

Day 2 was spent visiting the Acropolis, Roman Agora and Ancient Agora. Instead of words I will use photos to share the experience at Acropolis:

View at entry/exit to Acropolis. Right hand top is Athena Nike temple. Left is Agrippa and middle is the grand entrance to Acropolis called Propylaea

Agrippa Monument

Propylaea

 

A monument dedicated by the Athenians to Marcus vipsanius Agrippa




















Propylea means is any monumental gateway in Greek architecture

Parthenon - temple dedicated to goddess Athena

 

Erechtheion East End



Erechtheion Caryatids

Erectheion is an ancient temple on the north side of the Acropolis


Parthenon East End

 

Greek flag and a view point

Theatre of Dionysus - as visible from the Acropolis



Temple of Olympian Zeus - as visible from The Acropolis 

No audioguide or map is provided for the Acropolis visit - so either you join a guided tour or download an audioguide from internet - we did the latter.

Roman Agora was not that impressive, so we cut the tour short and decided to grab lunch instead before entering the Ancient Agora.

Ancient Agora visit turned out to be great thanks to the audio guide given at the site. Ancient Agora is the best known example of an ancient Greek Agora - the literal meaning of the word Agora is "gathering place" or "assembly". The agora used to be the center of athletic, artistic, spiritual and political life of the city. This site is huge and requires atleast 3 hours to do justice to it - there is also a museum inside the complex that has some interesting information and artifacts.

We had an awesome day visiting the two main archeological sites in Athens. It was a warm and sunny day and a gelato provided a perfect way to wrap it up :)



Greece - the birthplace of Western Civilization

During my visit to Italy, I couldn't help but notice the Greek influence in architecture and some cultural similarities as well. And then after reading how Greek influenced Romans beyond the architecture, I decided that I must visit Greece as well. Having been on a 10 day multi country trip to Europe in peak season of July, I decided to choose December for my Greece vacation - one the crowds would be less and two Greece doesn't get much colder than Delhi in winters - something I can easily handle.

Hence I planned a 7 day trip to Athens. Delphi and Santorini - later on we also added a day cruise to smaller islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina. We took Air France from Bangalore to Paris to Athens, with about 10 hours layover in Paris that we spent walking down Champs-Elysees and enjoying a long leisurely lunch in sunny though cold Paris.

We landed in Athens around 11 pm and were picked up by our pre-booked taxi. This time we were staying in an apartment booked through Airbnb - primarily because this was Christmas/new year eve time and good hotels were very expensive and there wasn't any Marriott property that I liked enough to book. My decision to use Airbnb turned out extremely positive - we reached the apartment around midnight and had the caretaker waiting for us to hand over the keys and give a basic tour of the apartment and its amenities.

This one BHK (Bedroom Hall Kitchen) apartment was in an access controlled building (hence very safe) and was every bit as listed & as shown in photos. It was very clean, done beautifully, very comfortable and had everything that one might need. The kitchen was complete with all utensils and appliances and the hosts had also stocked all key essentials. Location wise also this place was perfect - a mini market just 200 meters away and a super market about 500m away. Plus Acropolis and other key archeological sites, Syntagma square were within 1-1.5 km radius. We couldn't have asked for a better start to our holiday.

Next day we woke up late as we were jet lagged and had slept only around 1 am. Keeping in mind the late arrival into Athens I hadn't planned anything for the first day. After having some coffee, we decided to step out for a brunch, we didn't know where to go so we just started walking towards the Acropolis and about 5 minutes later we saw a restaurant that looked promising - we were starving and hence didn't want to shop around a lot so we entered the place.

Greek coffee

The food was amazing and the prices were reasonable. Service was also fast yet courteous...overall a great experience. Later on we discovered that the place has great reviews on Trip Advisor.



A model reconstruction of Acropolis Pediment

Next we decided to visit the Acropolis Museum - its suggested that visiting the museum provides a good background for the actual visit to Acropolis and I agree with it. Museum is very well laid out, there is no audio guide and honestly there isn't a need for one. The information provided along side the displays is enough. The map given at the time of entry suggests a route one should take, we stuck to that and really enjoyed the 3 hours that we spent here.






Notice the ruins below the ground level

We spent the rest of the evening walking to Syntagma Square to buy a local sim card with data (Vodafone worked out well for us) and wrapped up the day early with some wine and dinner.